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Showcasing the late Valter Nassi’s culinary life and his personalized Tuscan-Italian cuisine, “Valter of Salt Lake City: The Magic of the Table” commemorates Nassi’s food career of more than 50 years. 

Elaine Bapis honors local culinary legend with “Valter of Salt Lake City: The Magic of the Table”

Salt Lake City—Showcasing the late Valter Nassi’s culinary life and his personalized Tuscan-Italian cuisine, “Valter of Salt Lake City: The Magic of the Table” commemorates Nassi’s food career of more than 50 years. 

Elaine Bapis honors local culinary legend with “Valter of Salt Lake City: The Magic of the Table.”

“Valter and I … often talked about his dream to publish a book,” says author Elaine Bapis. “One night, I walked into the restaurant with my family for dinner. He took me aside and said, ‘Elena (Valter’s Italian name for me), you write the book.’ We met the next Thursday at the restaurant over an espresso. I sat across from him, opened my computer and said, ‘OK, start.’ We worked like that for four years.”

The resulting volume is a feast in three parts: One, a chronicle of Nassi’s life—from the rolling hills of the Tuscan countryside to Porto Cervo, Italy; Gstaad, Switzerland; Kenya; New York City; and, finally, Salt Lake City. Here, he established his signature restaurant, Valter’s Osteria, in 2012. 

Part two reveals Nassi’s culinary art and credo with over 100 photographs and topics ranging from the importance of flavor to the concept of simplicity, the art of buying food, and the belief that centering life around food results in a deeper connection to the world and the people around us. Part three delivers Nassi’s final message to readers: the importance of “cooking with soul” and leaving the recipe behind. 

“Midway through the book, a section of Valter’s sketches shows how he designed the placement and shape of food on the plate, similar to how a fashion designer sketches an ensemble,” Bapis says. “Steak and spinach accessorized with garlic, olive oil and wine. He often spoke of flavor as the perfume of the spice.”

Bapis encourages readers to, after gleaning inspiration from the pages, find three or four ingredients in their kitchens that could be assembled harmoniously and discover their own artistic talents through taste, feel and smell.

In his own words, Nassi said, “Food is not about the recipe because food is always about spontaneity attached to the kitchen and the table. It is inspired and inspirational. It has the power to change a mood on the spot, and that is the reason for cooking. That is the magic of the table.”  

“Valter of Salt Lake City: The Magic of the Table” is available at https://valterofslc.com or Valter’s Osteria.

Mekenna is the editor of Utah Business magazine and a graduate of the print journalism program at Utah State University. She has written about business, music and culture for publications like Business Insider, Time Out, SLUG Magazine, Visit Salt Lake and the Standard-Examiner. She loves hiking, thrifting, reading and going on camping trips with her partner in their 1986 Land Cruiser.